Jump in.

If you’re anything like me, you’d prefer a trip abroad to put you in contact with and not isolate you in your hotel from the local population.
If you’re anything like me, you like languages and local culture and want to see how such things are specifically peculiar in the region you have travelled to, not just to be told the general information and then being given a guide book that you then can read back to back without ever really letting you feel as if you truly experienced these things you have read.
If you’re anything like me, you have no idea how to volunteer without going through a quick google search and ending up with the most expensive, shielded and tourist oriented volunteer program possible – unless you know someone who has done it before.
That’s why I was so lucky to find Patricia and Ned. More or less by accident through the site Omprakash.
It was the only volunteer placement I could find in Ecuador that wouldn’t cost me thousands of dollars per. month and also seemed like it gave a unique opportunity to get in contact with the ‘real’ Ecuador – whatever that is or isn’t.
Having found that Ed was somewhat cut off from the internet and the rest of the world the communication was slow, but his steady approach and clearly informed relationship with not just the local community, but with contacts in Quito and so on quickly gave me the impression that this was a man who wasn’t trying to scam anyone, not trying to make money, he was only trying to help me arrange my trip so that I could get to volunteer in their local community.
He set me up with a family renting out a room in Quito who picked me up from the airport in this to me otherwise completely foreign place, quickly calming my nerves. They took me back to their house and after having went around in Quito for a few days they got me on a bus to Otevalo, and explained in very helpful details how to get from there to Cuellaje.
After several bus rides and a somewhat bumpy ‘taxi’ ride from Cuellaje further out into the mountains I was faced with the first European-looking person I’d seen since I’d been in the States a week earlier. The tan and hardened hands along with an extremely calming and friendly eyes and smile, together gave me the impression of a good-hearted but hard working man. Little did I know how true this first impression was to become over the following weeks and months.
After balancing my rather clumsy looking rolling suitcase (the wheels of which of course were not support by the infrastructure of this rural mountain area) onto a horse Ned had been riding, we continued to ascend up the mountain in a climb that this first time felt like it might aswell had been perpetual. I was not used to the thin air, the high humidity or the more or less non-existent paths which we were following.
I could go on and on and on about how lovely it was meeting Patricia who, although we didn’t share a language, did her best to include me in the routines, explaining me (in the most basic of ways) how to cook local dishes, which animals you ate around here and how you made rope out of horse’s hair. A sturdy but somehow still intelligent and funny woman shaped by a truly integrated community under living circumstances that don’t invite to leisurely living.
I could also go into significant detail with how the locals that Ned introduced me to took me in with open arms and great enthusiasm, sharing their meals and their conversations with me, a person who they had no responsibility for or shared any kind of cultural foundation with.
I could also go into enraging details when it comes to the little house in the village I lived after having lived with Ned and Patricia a while. Or when it comes to the school from where I taught local schoolchildren english and other subjects with almost no spanish skills at all. The joy of learning something different for the children was not to be mistaken – although their understanding of discipline and adherence to the law of the teacher was quite another than what I am used to from back home – but what else could you expect?
Finally I could break all kinds of protocol when it comes to how long of a description one can possible give of another group of individuals when I started relaying the social aspect of my trip to you. These people were unbelievable. Having travelled quite a bit I can say with certainty that nowhere in the world is absolutely safe, and few places are truly without humanity. But this place.. This place took the prize for me. If one existed.
I spent several months with them with more cash than is smart to have in this region of the world and of course being a white European you just reek of money, but somehow throughout these months I was never ever made uneasy or worried about my safety or that of my possessions. This doesn’t mean I went through everything without awareness, that would be inviting tragedy, or that one should do that. I just couldn’t help myself, but be cautious when I first arrived and saw people looking at me like I had just at that very moment dropped yoddling from the sky. After turning on the old thinktank it wasn’t hard to figure out why, seeing as there was always years between Europeans or North Americans visiting this particular neck of the woods..
But it took me little more than a few days before starting to befriend these people. They were extremely interested in everything from European music to politics and women, and I wanted to know everything about their lives and what they did from day to day. This supposedly being the long story made short I’ll spare you the gory details, but these guys and I had a bond at the end that made it very hard for me to say goodbye, not knowing if I’d ever return. Or whether they would be there. I could go into maddeningly precise detail with all this stuff because it touched me sincerely and has helped shape me more than any such short period of my life..

..I won’t do that though, this story is my attempt at underlining how Ned and Patricia – and later Sr. Ramiro and Sra. Marlena – are the type of people one should hope to run into on one’s travels. The type of people who want to learn everything about you – without pushing it. The type of poeple who want to teach you everything you want – without pushing you beyond capability, and the type of people who if you were to meet them anywhere in the world – they would improve it.
There are many beautiful places and people all around the world, but this combination of cultural and social circumstances is by far the best that I’ve come to encounter during my travelling.
One thing is for certain, whether just passing by for a few days and wanting to see another part of Ecuador than the one that tourist guides will show you or wanting to make a small contribution to a local struggling community, one should without a doubt give Ned and Patricia a chance. The reason it works so well is that they don’t do it for their own sakes, they do it for the village, for the people, for the country – and for you.
I guarantee if you give them a chance, you will never regret it. I know I don’t, and won’t.

– Emil Herlov Jorgensen. Denmark. Trip in the spring and summer of 2016.

Teaching in Rosario

Hi, Michelle here! As promised previously – a brief overview of my experience (so far) teaching in the primary school of El Rosario:

The primary school has 27 kids spread across 7 grades (aged 5 to 12) and 1 teacher. I honestly have no idea how she does it.

There’s a separate classroom for English, which is nice.

dsc_0852-001-copy

Generally, my schedule is:

7.40 – 9am: 1st and 2nd graders (5-6 year olds)

9 – 10.40am: 3rd and 4th graders

10.40 – 11.20am: break

11.20am – 12.30pm: 5th and 6th graders

12.30 – 1.20pm: 7th graders.

As you can see, it’s quite intense, but I think I’m getting used to it!

This schedule isn’t always followed as it’s not uncommon for other things to crop up – e.g. one day there was a visit by a bishop, and half the previous day was spent cleaning the school and rehearsing the welcome for the bishop. Sometimes the teacher has to attend seminars elsewhere in Intag so we either end school early or end up not having classes at all that day.

The kids know very basic English – when I arrived, they generally knew some animals, colours, numbers and even fewer verbs (only in the infinitive and -ing forms) that’s about it.

They have notebooks for English lessons and I can see that they’ve learnt stuff from previous volunteers but for lack of practice or whatever reason, most of it has been forgotten. They only have English classes when volunteers come, which is usually something like once or twice a year.

Challenges

For me personally, it’s challenging to work with the first and second graders because the former (all of 5 years old) can’t really read or write yet. They have minuscule attention spans, so we mostly have games and songs and do some drawing.

Attention span is a challenge especially with the younger kids. I’m developing a number of classroom management techniques, including:

  • kicking them out of class if they misbehave – this is helped by the fact that the regular teacher has told me repeatedly (in front of them) to let her know if anyone doesn’t listen to me so that nobody’s time is wasted. Her very sensible attitude is: if someone doesn’t want to learn English, their time would be better spent back in the regular class, so it’s no point keeping them in English lessons.
  • Making them copy stuff down in their notebooks – it’s good to have a written record anyway. It keeps them quiet and occupied, but one drawback is that the faster ones get bored and disruptive. I’m experimenting with a variety of early finisher tasks – they like games, but then the slower ones get distracted and fail to finish their task. I use the word “apure” (hurry) a lot.
  • Word searches (sopa de letras) are great for keeping them occupied and quiet. They really enjoy this activity as well! The only drawback is that it takes quite a bit of time to prepare as I do it all by hand (printing costs $0.10 per page in Cuellaje), so I usually get them to do it in pairs or threes.

The upper grades are more well-behaved and have longer attention spans, so it gets easier as the day wears on.

The first week or so, I was feeling somewhat overwhelmed by the above-mentioned challenges as well as the lack of resources (printing handouts is not an option), but as time went on it got better, and it’s undeniably rewarding when you see them learning.

dsc_1042-copy

“Curriculum”

Basically I have complete liberty to teach them whatever I want, e.g.:

  • animals
  • colours
  • the body
  • numbers (cardinal)
  • telling time
  • a limited number of common action verbs (eat, drink, run, sleep, etc.)
  • “I/You/He/She/We/They like/likes to [verb]” and the corresponding negative and question forms
  • the weather
  • food
  • clothes

Of course, the younger kids have looked at fewer topics than the older ones.

Classroom activities

Generally, I first introduce the new words by writing them on the board along with the Spanish translation, and getting them to copy it. Then we go through the pronunciation and do some activities to practise using the new words, e.g.:

  • songs (for the first and second graders – Heads, Shoulders, Knees & Toes and If You’re Happy and You Know It)
  • bingo (a previous volunteer very helpfully left behind laminated bingo cards for animals and action verbs along with little tokens, which the kids love)
  • slap or point to the correct word / image the fastest, either on a table or the whiteboard (that same volunteer also very helpfully left behind laminated A4-size pictures for animals and the body. I’ve also made a budget version of flashcards and “laminated” them using scotch tape)
  • Blow Wind Blow (at times with the variation that the person standing must answer a question correctly before the game can continue)
  • What’s the time, Mr Wolf?
  • board race: split into teams, ask a question and the team which writes the correct answer first wins.
  • Tic-Tac-Toe, but they have to answer a question correctly or they lose their turn
  • board game (the goal is to reach the end the fastest, some squares make them lose turns or go forwards / backwards, but most of the squares require them to answer a question correctly or lose a turn. Great for revision but takes quite long with bigger groups)
  • Hangman
  • Charades
  • Putting up a few questions on the board which they have to copy and then answer on their own
  • Backs to the Board
  • Word searches
  • Pictionary

The teacher (Profesora Blanca) wants the kids to take English classes seriously, and since I’ve been here now almost 3 months, she asked me to give them homework. They tell me that previous volunteers have never given them homework, but there’s always a first time for everything!
dsc_1049-copy

Once again, if you have any questions, you can find my contact details on my blog – http://michwanderlust.wordpress.com. Feel free to leave a comment or drop me an email!

November in El Rosario

IMG_1093

I spent much of November 2015 teaching English in El Rosario, Intag, Ecuador as a volunteer on Ned and Patricia’s project.  It was a memorable, heart-opening experience and I’m happy to share a little bit about it here.

First of all I should explain that El Rosario as a community has a school, a church and…well there is no “and” really.  That’s it.  The students for the school come from the small farms stretched along the dirt road that leads from El Rosario to Cuellaje, a village about 40 minutes away by truck or motorbike (but probably not by car, as almost no one owns a personal car).

There were 28 delightful, affectionate, high-spirited, inquisitive kids in the school, ranging in age from 5-12.  My contribution, really, was to take groups of students off the hands of the regular teacher, so that she could give extra attention to those who remained.  I taught English to grades 1-2 from 7:30-9 .m.; grades 3-4 from 9 a.m. to 10:20; grades 5-6 from 11:00-12:30 and grade 7 from 12:30 – 1:30.

thumb_IMG_0801_1024

Back home in Canada I am an English language teacher and have been for about 30 years, so the teaching was not so hard except that I haven’t taught kids before and my Spanish is basic (but improved a lot!).

We (me and other volunteers) had several chances to hike into the cloud forests….pretty remarkable.  The ecosystem is really special and the plant diversity rather stunning….a lot of orchids (many of them tiny, but some quite spectacular).

thumb_IMG_0942_1024

If you want a real adventure and are comfortable with a simple, healthy lifestyle, I really recommend this unusual opportunity.  Ned and Patricia are very caring and genuine people and this project is worthwhile.  The local people are open and happy to have you there and the kids are pretty unforgettable.

IMG_1109

 

 

 

Ten days volunteering in Intag

‘People travelling to Ecuador don’t want to visit Intag. They want the Galapagos, volcanoes, Quito.’ Sitting at Ned and Patricia’s kitchen table looking round at the incredible surroundings, I found this hard to understand. I was tucking into the best breakfast I’d had in months as their horse grazed outside the window, chickens ducked in between the lemon trees and Benji the dog sat at my feet.  The silver mist hanging in the valley below made this hard-to-reach location feel even more magical and I sat back, trying to make myself remember this moment forever.

View from Ned and Patricia's guesthouse, San Antonio Juguete, Ned and Patricia's horse, which they let me ride

I had stumbled upon the Intag website (www.intagtour.com) five months previously.  At the time I was working long hours in a high-pressure job in London and was looking for a change of pace. In my case it was Intag that brought me to Ecuador, not the Galapagos, the volcanoes or Quito. Five months later a beautiful 3-hour bus journey had lifted me above the market town of Otavalo, and I found myself in Ned and Patricia’s guesthouse. I’d come to volunteer, and after Ned talked me through my options, I decided I’d work as a teacher in Magdalena, one of the many tiny communities that make up the parish of Intag.

Ned had the idea for the Intag volunteer project in 2007, from his remote farm in San Antonio. He now welcomes visitors from all over the world, both as volunteers who stay with local families (some for up to 6 months at a time – I only had 10 days) or as guests to stay with him and his wife Patricia on their beautiful farm, where they have lovely guest rooms and you will enjoy excellent food and wonderful surroundings. He hopes to share his passion for the beauty and simplicity of Intag life with others, but also sees the introduction of tourism here as a way to safeguard the environment – put simply, if the area can attract tourists they may not turn to mining as a source of income, which would devastate the surroundings here.

Ned and Patricia showing me round their beautiful finca

Having worked as a volunteer himself for two years previously, Ned is adamant that volunteer placements should benefit both volunteers and host families evenly and carefully matches volunteers with families, whilst being on hand to provide support to both throughout the placement.  His consideration for the local community and gratitude towards those who make it all the way there shines through consistently, and all the people I spoke to in Intag seemed to fully support Ned and his project. The teachers have become reliant on the small amount of support they are receiving, in my case I was able to help the only teacher of an entire primary school, left alone due to governmental budget cuts. And my host family overcame their anxiety within minutes, delighting in watching me gobble down the food they had initially been hesitant to serve me.

Unlike some volunteer placements, the volunteers here are asked to pay for their stay, paying $45 (£30) per week as teachers and $50 (£33) per week to help on the farms  –  the difference in cost to try and attract more teachers, though this requires some knowledge of Spanish. The cost includes accommodation in a home with a local family and three (in my case, delicious) meals a day.  Ned explained that by having volunteers give a small contribution it was much easier to get families on board, and the quality of the food shot up. It certainly seemed a very small price to pay for my time spent there. I taught from 8am to 1pm each day with a one-hour break for play time. The kids were naughty but very sweet, and I absolutely loved it.

Magdalena school

Though I know that tourism will benefit the community in the long run and vowed to spread the word, rather selfishly I’m glad to have experienced Intag before it gets ‘discovered’. There’s no denying how remote this place is, and flashpackers need not apply. TV and internet don’t reach here, and you may have to get used to cold showers (though I hasten to add that Ned and Patricia’s guesthouse has a fantastic hot shower!).  Before getting the bus back to Otavalo on my last day, I had one final stand-back-and-stare-in-awe at my location. There are 35 beautiful, funny, resilient children here that I will miss dearly, and their families who welcomed me so warmly. I might even miss the puzzled chicken that watched me shower each morning. I only wish I could have stayed longer. Ten days in Intag made the traditional backpacker tendency of hopping from one hostel to the next seem bland and ironic – it was a fantastic way to get a real taste of life in Ecuador. Come with an open mind, a big smile and be ready to get stuck in. The focus must not be on what Intag lacks, but on everything you will find there.

If you have any questions at all about visiting Intag or would like more practical information or details of the volunteer work I did, please do not hesitate to contact me: lilykhambata@hotmail.com

Lucera y Mora

Mule ride! Sounds like a good idea, in theory. That is unless you’re 6 feet tall and your feet practically touch the ground once you’re riding the animal. This was the case for Dave when Angel, our host-dad, told us to hop on two of his mules to ride up to another portion of his property. Things were going pretty well for me and Lucera (which means skylight), who was very obedient and didn’t mind trudging slowly up the endless dirt path. Mora (which means blackberry) on the other hand, seemed a bit pissed off to have tall Jesus on her back, and showed her displeasure by ignoring signals to keep moving and opting for a respite in a tasty patch of Guatemala grass. Eventually Angel tore off a sapling branch and gave it to Dave to use as a switch, to which Mora audibly voiced her opinion.

DSCN3661

In the end though, Mora got the last laugh while going up a part of the path that had recently been washed out by heavy rains. The slick soil was rife with huge cracks that just begged for an accident. Within a few minutes of heading up this part my mule was slipping a bit, and just as I turned around to check on Dave and Mora, I saw her lose her front foothold and awkwardly tumble into the side of the hill with Dave slowly falling off after her. I suppose it didn’t help that Dave’s “saddle” was actually a few feed bags stacked together.

And, just as he was starting to get to his feet, Mora gave him a little warning kick to remind him who’s boss. We walked the rest of this part – well, except Angel, who mounted Lucera with his 3-year-old and towed Mora behind him. Clearly this wasn’t his first rodeo.

DSCN3662

Here’s Dave back on the horse — once we passed the treacherous part.

Las palabras del dia

Mula – Mule
Derrumbe – Landslide
Lodo – Mud
Cowboy – Gaucho
Hierba/Pasto – Grass
Lucera – Skylight
Mora – Blackberry

Landslides

The rain finally caught up with us. After leaving Peru in November, a month before the rains set in, and narrowly missing the rainy season in Colombia that begins in March, we’ve managed to stay fairly dry. So maybe we were riding high on our hubris as we entered Ecuador, because neither of us bothered to look into weather conditions. And as it turns out, March is one of the rainiest months for this part of the Ecuadorian Andes. What we also didn’t know is that this frequent and heavy rain causes landslides on a regular basis.

DSCN3527

Attempting to hop on the milk truck into town yesterday morning, Dave, Ned and I – plus several ladies who had hauled huge aluminum containers of milk to sell – waited for an hour for a ride that never came. After phoning a few people more keyed into road conditions, we learned there had been five small landslides overnight, plus one big one that wiped out the road. Luckily Cuellaje is equipped with tractors that can plow through the fallen debris and clear the roads for traffic.

DSCN3522

Riding the milk truck into town this morning we were able to survey the damage. I’m fairly certain we passed more than five, but maybe people here don’t bother to count the little ones. For the most part the road is carved into the cliffside and remains unpaved. The landslides looked like someone had come along and hit some of the steepest overhead drop-offs with a chisel and the sandy soil simply crumbled into a heap. We passed several that had taken out trees and bushes. Others had piled into the road and tumbled down the other side of the cliff.

DSCN3677

But thanks to the town’s tractors, we made it to our homestay family and won’t have to head up that way again. Oh, also, it’s drier here! Take that rainy season.

DSCN3726

Cuellaje, Ecuador

From Atacames we made our way to Quito (seven-hour bus ride) to Otavalo (two-and-a-half hours) to Cuellaje (four hours) where we stayed the night at a local inn for $8/person. Cuellaje is the small pueblo and the homebase for our homestay program. A British guy – known to gringos as Ned, and to Ecuadorians as Eduardo – moved to a remote section of the Intag province in 2007, and began organizing a volunteer exchange. For about $50/week he sets you up with a local family that is able to accommodate guests with room and board. Ned, and his Ecuadorian wife Patricia, also participate in the program and are one of the families you can opt to stay with. We intended on staying at their place only the first night, but because of a few overnight landslides, and a mañana-attitude in general, we stayed for three.

DSCN3537

In just barely three days, Dave and I could have qualified for our homesteading badges. In her downtime, the lady of the house manages to knit/crochet sweaters for her 2-year-old, make jam, weave baskets, wash clothing and cook breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sort of like a humming bird bouncing from her sink full of dishes, to her niña, to the kitchen table, she was even able to dwell on us long enough to teach us basket-weaving and knitting. We’re now the proud owners of two somewhat similar looking baskets made from local vines, and the little girl’s sweater now has a rather bunchy row of haphazard stitches that will forever illustrate my knitting prowess.

Ned, on the other hand, mostly sticks to his domain – the family’s extensive stretch of 70 hectares (about 140 acres) of Ecuadorian cloud forest. (What is a cloud forest exactly? Ned told us it was essentially a rain forest over 1,500 meters. It’s still wet and dense, but the terrain is extremely steep.)

DSCN3575

We took a three-and-a-half hour tour of the property with Ned as our guide, who fearlessly ambled through the jungle-like terrain, stopping occasionally to admire the old-growth trees virtually overrun by mosses, bromeliads, vines and a few shy orchids. He sort of struck me as Bear Grylls’s more camera-shy cousin – still survival-minded and skilled with a machete, but too savvy and practical to ever attempt stunts like Bear’s.

DSCN3579

And nearer to the house, Ned and Patricia also raise chickens, rabbits, guinea pigs and several dairy cows. Ned explained his aim was to live as self-sufficiently as possible, but life in a cloud forest is difficult for most vegetables and fruit trees. Still, Dave got his share of avocados, which made a daily appearance, as Patricia’s mom has a whole plantation of them on her property at a lower elevation.

DSCN3583

Un exposé de Master sur mes experiences à Intag – Master en Anthropologie et Métiers du Développement Durable, Aix-Marseille Université

« INTAGTOUR » Exposé d’une expérience du bénévolat en Equateur
Mai – Juin 2011

Bethan STACEY

Bien qu’en ayant régulièrement voyagé en dehors de l’Europe, cette période de bénévolat ressort comme une expérience importante. C’était la première fois que j’ai pu réellement échanger et vivre avec les individus d’une, et dans, une communauté extrêmement différente de la mienne, ainsi que participer à la vie quotidienne. En conséquence, je vais souligner plusieurs choses que j’ai apprises sur moi-même et qui m’aideront en tant qu’acteur dans un projet du développement. Sans doute cette expérience aurait été très intéressante et nettement plus révélatrice si j’avais été anthropologue, et je vais tenter d’expliquer comment. Par-dessus tout, j’ai eu l’occasion de faire partie d’un autre système d’éducation. Cela m’a fait questionner beaucoup de choses que j’élaborerai par la suite, et dont certaines que je souhaite aborder dans le mémoire de ce Master 1.

Le contexte du projet Intagtour
Intagtour se situe en Intag, qui est une zone sub-tropicale de la province d’Imbabura en Equateur, au nord de la capitale, Quito. Il s’agit d’une zone de foret montagneuse humide qui est connue pour sa variété de flore et de faune. J’étais basée dans la paroisse de Cuellaje, dans la petite communauté rurale de San Antonio, qui touche la réserve naturelle de Cotacachi-Cayapas.
Les alentours d’Intag ont une population indigène mais Intag elle-même est une zone de mixité ethnique (mestizo). Dans la plupart des cas, ces peuples sont venus s’installer entre 1890s et 1960s en fuyant le travail très dure des importantes exploitations agricoles autour de Quito.
Le projet a un volet écotouristique avec, pour but, de fournir une expérience inoubliable aux voyageurs et écotouristes, grâce à un mélange de nature « intacte » et une interaction culturelle détendue et « authentique ». L’autre volet est celui du bénévolat, ce qui concerne mon expérience. Il en existe trois types : l’enseignement, le travail agricole et celui du travail écologique et de la conservation. L’idée s’agit d’accroitre la confiance des enfants et adultes locaux pour qu’ils connaissent d’autres professions et puissent gagner un revenu des sources qui ne menacent pas leur mode de vie traditionnel. Le projet cible aussi à ralentir la déforestation d’Intag et d’encourager les locaux à réfléchir sur l’exploitation minière de cuivre dans la région, et ses possibles effets à long termes sur les ressources naturelles.

Avant ma participation

A part des raisons pragmatiques liées aux frais, à la flexibilité et à la localisation du projet, j’ai choisi Intagtour pour plusieurs raisons. L’éducation est quelque chose que je tiens au coeur et je voulais être impliquée dans un projet où je pouvais avoir un rôle vraiment utile : je voulais appliquer mes compétences déjà existantes. Je crois que le rôle du professeur est important dans n’importe quelle société. Bien sur j’avais le désir aussi de me dépayser et expérimenter une société très différente, ainsi qu’apprendre la langue Espagnole. Il faut prendre en compte que le mois du bénévolat ne faisait qu’un tiers de mon voyage en Amérique du Sud, où j’étais touriste à la base.
Grâce à mes correspondances avec le directeur du programme, Ned, j’ai compris que mes seules tâches consisteraient en enseigner l’Anglais dans une école primaire et faire d’autres cours selon mes centres d’intérêt et les besoins des professeurs. Les horaires du travail n’étaient pas détaillées et la durée de la participation était selon la disponibilité et la volonté du bénévole avec un minimum d’une semaine. Le logement se faisait selon le ‘feeling’ entre les bénévoles et la famille d’accueil. En bref, la totalité de l’organisation était très flexible et n’exigeait pas un engagement énorme de la part du bénévole.
A propos des locaux, des coutumes, des conditions de vie, de la technologie etc, les photographies et les descriptions du directeur et des anciens bénévoles ne me permettaient pas de les visualiser réellement. Cependant, en arrivant je me suis rendue compte que le lieu et la situation du bénévole étaient plus isolés que ce que j’avais attendu.

La vie d’Intag et les obstacles
C’était la première fois que j’avais ‘vécu’ hors de l’Europe donc j’ai rencontré quelques petites difficultés. Celles-ci existaient à cause de la disparité entre les habitudes et le niveau de confort occidentaux par rapport à ceux de l’Intag. Par exemple, le niveau hygiène et sanitaire, ainsi que la variété de la nourriture et la régularité des repas étaient très contrastés. Cependant, aucunes de ces « difficultés » ne me posaient de grands problèmes car il fallait juste un niveau d’adaptation. En plus la durée n’était pas longue.
L’obstacle le plus grand était celui de la communication verbale limitée. A cause d’un niveau d’Espagnole peu élevé, les échanges étaient moins importants et moins détaillés que je ne l’aurais souhaité. Nous étions limités dans notre appréhension d’un grand nombre de choses pratiques et culturelles, par exemple sur l’école et l’éducation, les activités dans la communauté, et les vues, valeurs et opinions de notre famille d’accueil etc. La situation était donc souvent frustrante et parfois confuse. J’ai aussi constaté que les individus s’adressaient plus à mon compagnon, même si j’avais un Espagnol nettement plus avancé. Peut-être la société était généralement machiste.
Néanmoins, il y avait des éléments facilitateurs dans la communauté. Une professeur en particulier était très facilitatrice. Elle avait déjà vécu de bonnes expériences avec d’autres bénévoles, était assez jeune et venait de l’extérieur. Tout cela pourrait expliquer sa volonté de nous aider. Les enfants nous ont également aidé dans la communication, qui est plus simple en général avec eux. Enfin, pour avoir un peu de contact avec la vie occidentale, une communication facile ou de la traduction le directeur était très disponible.

Le bénévolat et l’école
Dans les écoles primaires de ces communautés, il n’y avait aucun professeur qui pouvait enseigner l’Anglais, même si la langue fait partie du programme scolaire national. En tant que bénévole, j’ai donc fait du soutien scolaire.
Pendant la période du bénévolat, j’ai observé certains phénomènes qui me semblaient inconsistants ou paradoxaux :
Professeurs : Un programme scolaire national existe, ainsi qu’une routine dans l’enseignement, mais les professeurs semblaient les adapter assez librement (et des fois en ignorant qu’ils le faisaient) : la durée des pauses changeaient considérablement d’un jour à l’autre ; certaines activités qui devaient avoir lieu chaque semaine n’ont pas été suivies ; il y a eu des jours de grand changement dans la routine scolaire, et des absences de professeurs qui engendraient la fermeture de l’école ou de classes ; parfois je donnais des cours beaucoup plus longs, ou dans des matières autres que l’Anglais comme les cours de sport et de danse, qui me paraissaient des matières peu favorisées par les professeurs. En outre, malgré les relations apparemment très proches entre enfants et professeurs, la sévérité du professeur et son rapport avec les élèves changeaient selon l’humeur de ce dernier.
En général, le comportement des professeurs me paraissait imprévisible et parfois peu professionnel. Par conséquent, j’ai trouvé assez difficile de comprendre les logiques qui sous-tendaient leurs actions – je ne suis pas arrivée à distinguer entre la personnalité, la culture professionnelle et la culture locale.
« Projet graine » : Un jour, les enfants faisaient du jardinage à l’école. Je croyais qu’il s’agissait d’un caprice des professeurs pour occuper les enfants, mais une professeur m’a expliqué que c’était un projet scolaire national de s’occuper et de cultiver des jardins. D’un cote, je voyais directement la valeur pour les enfants mais de l’autre je trouvais ce scénario bizarre ; ils viennent tous de familles agricoles. Postérieurement, j’ai appris que ce projet a été conçu pour répondre au problème du manque de nourriture dans les zones rurales en Equateur, où les agriculteurs se concentrent sur l’élevage de bétail parce que cela rapporte plus de revenu.
Prise de conscience des problèmes environnementaux : Les enfants d’Intag reçoivent des cours sur la sensibilisation à l’environnement. Par contre, j’ai observé des pratiques qui vont à l’encontre de ma propre conception de ce sujet. Les familles pratiquent l’agriculture sur brulis ou sur abbatis-brulis et empiètent sur le peu de forêt qu’il reste et qu’ils ont le droit de toucher. Il n’y avait pas de déchetterie à San Antonio. Les animaux consommaient tous les déchets biologique mais tout emballage était brûlé, déposé dans un champ derrière la maison, ou en pleine nature où les enfants les laissaient tomber. Enfin, il y avait une poubelle de recyclage à l’école mais les déchets n’étaient pas triés.
Anglais : L’Anglais fait partie du programme scolaire national. Cependant, dans cette école, les professeurs n’étaient pas formés et il n’y avait pas de programme/textes formels à suivre. J’ai donc continué le programme de l’ancien bénévole et organisé son suivi pour que le prochain puisse maintenir un peu de continuité. Il n’était donc pas possible de connaître le programme d’Anglais proposé par l’état, ni les méthodes ou la manière dont les enfants sont sensés l’apprendre.
Méthodes d’enseignement : En général je me suis posée des questions sur l’efficacité de quelques méthodes d’enseignement qu’employaient les professeurs. Par exemple, j’ai observé beaucoup de répétition orale et la duplication de beaucoup de lignes d’écriture, ce qui me paraissait quelque peu dépassé.

Conclusions et questions à la fin du bénévolat
A la fin du bénévolat, j’ai eu l’impression d’avoir contribué à l’éducation des enfants en prenant le relai d’autres bénévoles pour assurer un Anglais plus ou moins continu. Comme les professeurs n’étaient pas qualifiés en Anglais, je n’ai pas eu peur de prendre le travail d’un professeur ‘local’. Les parents des enfants se sont déclarés être vraiment reconnaissants du travail des bénévoles, ainsi que les professeurs. De ce fait, je n’aurais pas pu attendre mieux de mon séjour la-bas. Cependant, j’ai encore beaucoup de questions sur le bénévolat et le développement dans les pays « du Sud », mais surtout sur l’éducation formelle, (et informelle).
Questions sur l’éducation : Dans un pays comme l’Equateur, il y a un énorme décalage entre vie rurale et vie urbaine. Comment les enfants arrivent à concilier ce qu’ils apprennent à l’école qui suit un programme scolaire national, avec une vie rurale? Comment est-ce qu’ils intègrent ces idées concrètement? Est-ce que l’école est adaptée et utile aux enfants qui vont reprendre le terrain et la vie agricole de leurs parents? Mais, est-ce que l’éducation formelle devrait répondre à la vie rurale ou est-ce que ce type d’éducation devrait prendre lieu au sein de la famille, plus informellement? Est-ce que les enfants devraient être préparés à la compétition dans une économie et un marché globale ? Le peuvent-ils, sans dévaloriser leurs propres systèmes de valeurs? Et dans ce cas de figure, où est la place de l’apprentissage de l’Anglais et le travail des bénévoles, dans une zone où il y a très peu de contact et de commerce avec les étrangers ? Surement ils ne devraient pas être restreints par leur éducation ni trop éloignés de la culture de leurs parents.
En bref, l’éducation formelle peut-elle réellement améliorer les vies des personnes pauvres ? Comment ? Et quelles en sont les questions anthropologiques? Quelle est l’importance des méthodes d’enseignement utilisées, de la personnalité des professeurs ou des matières abordées ?

Comment cette expérience m’aidera au début d’une vie professionnelle

Cette expérience m’a permit de légèrement appréhender les conditions que je pourrais affronter dans un projet du développement dans une zone rurale d’un pays « du Sud ». Sur le plan personnel, j’ai pu donc constater comment je fais face à certaines différences et mon niveau d’adaptabilité. Par ailleurs, je comprends l’importance de connaître le mieux possible la langue de la société concernée pour pouvoir échanger efficacement. Par conséquence, en tant qu’acteur dans un projet de développement, je ferai en sorte de travailler dans un milieu où je parle déjà une des langues de la population. Sinon, je ferai tout pour apprendre les bases de la langue et je demanderai un interprète à mes employeurs.
Aussi, la durée de mon séjour d’un mois pourrait ressembler aux contraintes de temps d’une étude anthropologique dans un projet de développement. Même en vivant chez les habitants et ayant un rôle participatif, ce n’est pas évident de commencer à comprendre une société dans un temps aussi court. Je peux donc imaginer la difficulté de cette restriction sur un travail d’anthropologue ou de sociologue dans le développement.
Je réalise que je suis partie assez ‘ignorante’ des conditions de vie, des tâches et attentes de ma participation, ainsi que de la structure même. J’avais essayé de choisir un ‘bon’ projet de bénévolat mais ces choses ne se réalisent pas facilement à distance. Quoiqu’il arrive, dans les projets de développement, il paraît qu’un grand écart existe entre les attentes et les plans des acteurs avant la mise en oeuvre d’un projet, et les réalités sur le terrain. Ceci étant dit, cela ne m’empêchera pas de me renseigner soigneusement sur l’organisation qui mène le projet avant de m’y engager. Enfin, si j’avais été formée en anthropologie avant cette expérience, j’aurais appréhendé les actions des individus, et surtout des professeurs bien différemment. J’aurais tenter d’en découvrir plus sur la conception et la mise en oeuvre du projet, l’implication et la participation des individus de la communauté, les impactes, et la place du directeur dans la communauté. Certainement, j’espérerais avoir moins de questions très larges sur l’éducation formelle, et informelle, dans cette communauté.

Conclusion

Même-si mon implication dans ce projet n’est pas celle d’un acteur de projet de développement, l’expérience m’a servie quand même comme une sorte de terrain d’entrainement, avec tout l’apprentissage que cela amène. Avec la prise de recul et l’application des connaissances que je suis en train d’acquérir grâce à mes études actuelles, j’arrive à contextualiser ce projet dans le domaine du développement, et le voir d’un point de vue plus anthropologique que ce que j’avais à l’époque. Surtout, les questions que j’ai soulevées liées à l’éducation me donne un point de départ pour mes prochaines recherches dans le cadre de mes études.

Huasipungo

In the early sixteen hundreds, there were more than five hundred encomiendas, or parcels of land in the Ecuador region, given out to Spanish conquistadores and run byt the labour of about half of the indigenous population, who were more or less serfs on the estates. Another quarter of the indigenous population escaped from the fertile lands under the econmienda system to go to the less prosperous páramo or lowland forest areas. But soon they were rounded up and resettled in purpose built Indian towns. The Spanish used and abused an Inca system called the mitayo system, whereby indigenous people were supposed to be free, work on the land for one year, get paid a salary and then be allowed to move on. Instead, the Spanish assured that the indigenous received a small wage, but at the same time that the debts that they owed the landowners would be even greater, tying them and their children to staying working the lands practically for free for many generations. Thankfully, all of the gold and silver deposits had been long exhausted and the indígenos were not forced to work in the mines, where they lived and died in Peru and Bolivia. Instead they worked in agriculture and textiles and in the seventeenth century hundreds of obrajes or sweatshops opened around the country. At the end of the 1690’s a wave of epidemics wiped out half of the native population, droughts destroyed harvests and severe earthquakes shook the region. This caused the demise of the encomiendas which were replaced by large private estates or haciendas, but they brought little relief for the indígenas who were introduced to the new system of huasipungo. In return for their labour on the haciendas, they were entitled to farm tiny plots of land in their spare moments, where they were expected to grow all their own food.
The Huasipungo system was made famous by Jorgé Icaza(1934), one of Ecuador’s greatest literary exports in the novel of the same name.  It tells the story of a landowner, Alfonso Pereira who decides to exploit wood on the lands of his hacienda, in association with American businessmen. In order to gain access, he has to build a road and expel the indigineous population from their huasipungos, or small plots which are on his land. Despite the resistance of the indígenos, the story meets a tragic end. Here is a short extract where we feel the injustice and daily struggle of the natives.
Andrés cleaned the sweat pouring from his face with the back of his hand. He then gazed at the land around him with the resentment of the defeated. What could save him? The sky above was grey, heavy and indifferent. Below the soil was soggy, planting him further and further into the earth. Around him were the woodchoppers, under strain like beasts. In the distance the damp, deceiving field. And locking it all together, the eye of the master.

The sierra and the cloudforests

Below the snow line of the highest Andean peaks is a slender margin of tundra. From around 4700 to 3100m are the páramos, a less harsh, wider range of life. Lower than the páramo are the cloudforests, clothing the sierra in dense vegetation between 1800m and 3500m. Wet, green vibrant and extraordinarily beautiful, cloudforest feel like the prehistoric habitat of dinosaurs. Streaked by silvery waterfalls, the forests are shrouded in heavy mists for at least part of each day, as moisture from the lowland forests rises, cools and condenses. It’s this dampness that creats such lush conditions, giving rise to an abundance of mosses that drape over the trees and grow as independent canopy residents. Many orchids grow on exposed bark, preferring it to normal soil. With more than 3500 species, Ecuador is thought to have more orchids than any other country in the world. In a ten-square-kilometre patch of eastern cloudforest alone, two hundred orchids have been counted, only a little less than the total for the whole country of Kenya.
Cloudforests are also home to an incredible range of animals such as woolly tapirs, spectacled bears and pumas and they have an exceptional level of bird endemism- birds that are unique to the place and not found anywhere else. At higher altitudes, the cloudforest is called elfin forest, because the trees are restricted in growth by the permanent mist that blocks out the sunlight. Elfin forests are an impenetrably dense tangle of short, twisted gnarled trees barely two metres tall.

The sierra and the cloudforestsBelow the snow line of the highest Andean peaks is a slender margin of tundra. From around 4700 to 3100m are the páramos, a less harsh, wider range of life. Lower than the páramo are the cloudforests, clothing the sierra in dense vegetation between 1800m and 3500m. Wet, green vibrant and extraordinarily beautiful, cloudforest feel like the prehistoric habitat of dinosaurs. Streaked by silvery waterfalls, the forests are shrouded in heavy mists for at least part of each day, as moisture from the lowland forests rises, cools and condenses. It’s this dampness that creats such lush conditions, giving rise to an abundance of mosses that drape over the trees and grow as independent canopy residents. Many orchids grow on exposed bark, preferring it to normal soil. With more than 3500 species, Ecuador is thought to have more orchids than any other country in the world. In a ten-square-kilometre patch of eastern cloudforest alone, two hundred orchids have been counted, only a little less than the total for the whole country of Kenya. Cloudforests are also home to an incredible range of animals such as woolly tapirs, spectacled bears and pumas and they have an exceptional level of bird endemism- birds that are unique to the place and not found anywhere else. At higher altitudes, the cloudforest is called elfin forest, because the trees are restricted in growth by the permanent mist that blocks out the sunlight. Elfin forests are an impenetrably dense tangle of short, twisted gnarled trees barely two metres tall.

« Older entries